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 Post subject: Gun Build
PostPosted: 31 Jan 2012, 19:47 
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Joined: 05 Oct 2011, 23:48
Posts: 39
Hi Guys,

Relatively new to this forum, but thought some of you may be interested in some pic's of my latest gun build. It is my first cuttle bone shaped gun and first build using a complete handle not made from wood, which is a beuchat marlin type. It is made from new guinea teak which has been oil finished. The spear is an omer america 7mm/150cm, the gun is roughly a 110.

Having not done any comps and thinking of having a go, I was wondering what makes a good comp gun? It's all good to have an open muzzle 110 with twin 16's and a double wrap when your out on the weekend, but I can imagine this may be a bit annoying to use in a comp.

Hope you enjoy the pic's and thanks for any help on the comp gun question.

Tim

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cuttle bone gun 1.jpg
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cuttle bone gun 5.jpg
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cuttle bone gun 7.jpg
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cuttle bone gun 8.jpg
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cuttle bone gun muzzle.jpg
cuttle bone gun muzzle.jpg [ 195.58 KiB | Viewed 2352 times ]


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 Post subject: Re: Gun Build
PostPosted: 31 Jan 2012, 20:31 
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Joined: 04 Feb 2010, 11:09
Posts: 579
Nice shaping, great symmetry. Most guns I see at comps are 1m, but 90s and 110s have their fans too. Double wraps suck.

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 Post subject: Re: Gun Build
PostPosted: 01 Feb 2012, 21:04 
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Joined: 08 Feb 2010, 19:14
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Location: St Andrews Beach
Nice!.....Good choice going with the oil finish instead of the poly or lacquer.


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 Post subject: Re: Gun Build
PostPosted: 02 Feb 2012, 17:10 
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Joined: 09 Sep 2008, 17:24
Posts: 179
Location: Craigieburn also Portarlington
a good comp gun is something light, fast, and reliable.
closed muzzles are the way to go with euro rubber as they are easy to replace with in the water.
single wrap is all that is needed and a 6.5mm spear for speed and versatility for all fish.
just my 2cents worth, hope it helped.

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 Post subject: Re: Gun Build
PostPosted: 02 Feb 2012, 18:23 
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Joined: 03 Nov 2005, 02:36
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wess wrote:
Nice!.....Good choice going with the oil finish instead of the poly or lacquer.

what makes you say that, oil is more maintenance in the long term, doesn't look as good doesn't protect the wood as well and is just generally shitter. Riffe only do it because it's cheaper and easier.

Nice work by the way now it just needs a couple coats of spar varnish.

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 Post subject: Re: Gun Build
PostPosted: 02 Feb 2012, 20:23 
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Joined: 08 Feb 2010, 19:14
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Location: St Andrews Beach
Greg wrote:
wess wrote:
Nice!.....Good choice going with the oil finish instead of the poly or lacquer.

what makes you say that, oil is more maintenance in the long term, doesn't look as good doesn't protect the wood as well and is just generally shitter. Riffe only do it because it's cheaper and easier.

Nice work by the way now it just needs a couple coats of spar varnish.


Because polys and lacquers only sit on the surface, so once scratched it exposes the timber, coating flakes and then holds water in the grain, oils penitrate then build a surface coat with enough layers.


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 Post subject: Re: Gun Build
PostPosted: 02 Feb 2012, 21:51 
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Joined: 03 Nov 2005, 02:36
Posts: 1248
Over the years I have used a few different oils (tung, linseed and Danish), epoxy, PU and varnishes.
Tung oil works more like a varnish than the other oils but still offered very little protection and the wood scratched easily. I only used it once. No oil can be built up enough to protect the surface.
Varnishes are a mixture of polymerised oil and other resins. these can be diluted with turps and soak right into the wood, just as deep as a pure oil but can be built up to provide a coating over the timber.
Pure polyurethane and epoxy finishes don't penetrate as deeply but give a scratch resistant coating over the wood that protect much better than an oil. Epoxy goes crap from UV, most polyurethanes do as well but take a lot longer.
I really like Feast and Watsons spar varnish and find that it gives really good penetration, uv resistance and a tough high gloss finish.

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 Post subject: Re: Gun Build
PostPosted: 02 Feb 2012, 22:38 
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Joined: 05 Oct 2011, 23:48
Posts: 39
Thanks Trent for your thoughts on the comp gun and everyone else for the nice words.

As far as the finish goes, it is far easier to get a nice oil finish over an epoxy or varnish and the wood is teak. So it doesn't need much protection anyway. I have use epoxy in the past and found uv effects it. Making it go cloudy or yellow. I'm pretty sure west systems epoxy make an addative for their clear coat to stop this, but I'm yet to try it. My first guns are coated with 2 pot floor varnish and are still going well, however it is hard to touch up without sanding back large areas or doing a whole recoat. As is epoxy and that is another reason for my choice of wood(teak) and it's oil finish.

Tim


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