hi guys,
I am going to make my own rail gun soon. apparently a 100-110cm length gun is a good Allrounder so I will work off this length.

what I was wondering is what sort of trigger mech and spear style/dia should I get for mainly PPB and west coast spearing?
I am going to make my own handle.

Still can't decide wether to go with an open style muzzle or a closed/stainless eye bolt style muzzle?

also tossing up wether to go wilh an open top rail to be used with a slotted spear shaft or an enclosed rail to be used with a shaft with shark fins?

I am going to make allowance to run 2 16mm rubbers for if I need that extra power on a bigger faster fish.

thanks in advance for any contributing key factors to look out for.

Cheers, Luke

also plan to make a stainless steel skeleton handle with a flat mounting plate and shaped wooden grips.

I will also be spray painting and airbrushing a camo pattern on it and finishing it with a matt clear 2 pack.

If you're going down the wooden handle route you can't go wrong with these:

http://www.neptonics.com.au/products/reverse-mech/
http://www.neptonics.com.au/products/handle-frame-kit/

That neptonics mech is cut for square (american style) spear cut outs, if you're building an everyday gun euro spears might be better (and cheaper in the long run). You can apparently get them to reshape the mech sear to a rounded (euro) cutout if you ask. Otherwise plenty of people have put a plastic handle and mech on a wood barrel pretty successfully.

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exactly what I was looking at.
I am going to make the handle carcass myself. not sure wether to go with 3mm stainless or 6mm ally?
also, does the nektonic s mech have a safety switch on it. can't seem to see one?

No safety, you shouldn't be relying on a safety anyway. There is a simple mechanism that can be fitted to one of their mechs but not sure about that one. Their aluminum handle works fine for me, but if you've got the gear to build a reliable one out of stainless then that'd work.

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Civilisation ends at the waterline. Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top.

I recently reworked my folks rental in Perth and found an old home made gun that used a stanley plane handle for the speargun handle (meant to bring it back with me)

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Plane handle and Undersee mech. That was probably the most common home made gun 40 years ago.

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WARNING: CONTAINS CARROT

I have made a few guns. Neptonics make great parts, you can't go wrong with them. Check out there how to video series on youtube. There are some great tips for gun makers on there.

I've made a 110cm euro enclosed track gun that uses 2X16mm rubbers and feel the enclosed track is really over kill for a 7mm spear under that amount of power. May be for 3 or more band guns the enclosed track could help, but unless your building a tuna gun 2X16mm bands is more than enough power for vic.

With the handle, I would use stainless steel. Wooden handles tend to be bouyant and make the gun turn over or float too much at the handle end. The SS frame will act as weight to stop this.

so an open track rail it is then!
about 6mm deep?
Reason why I mentioned about a safety switch is because my mirage razor 750 has one and I assumed that all trigger mechs either loose, part of a handle or a complete gun, had one. seems not so?

Neptonics have safety's for there reef trigger mech's. Email Josh or probably Danielle more so for the Aussie site.

Your track depth is only limited by your spear notches and your mono hole, always test depth with a small piece of line in your spear. I think shallow may be better with less friction on the spear to slow it. 2-3mm should be fine. Get a cheap piece of pine to test different tracks in.